Hobbit Cosplay > The Bodice > Construction

Pattern  For those who don’t know, I used a pattern as the base of my bodice pattern. Now this was the first time I’ve ever used a commercial pattern. Normally, I just draft a pattern to my measurements on paper. But for this project I wanted a very specific shape. That, and the pattern was on sale for $2. Turns out though, when working with a commercial pattern I had to make more mockups and make more alterations. So from now on, I think I’ll go with reference images and paper drafting. This is the pattern I began with for my bodice: 1940ca2dc4052f478baba9be13b1dfa0

I made the bodice without any tabs or flounces on the waist.

Pattern Alterations  One of the first alterations I did was change the lace closure from the front to the back. This of course didn’t go as smoothly as I thought. During the first mock up I cut the entire front as one piece on the fold. That caused the fabric to gap in the neckline, which forced me to cut the front into 2 pieces, with a seam down the center front. Secondly, I shortened the arm straps. This I just knew to do because of past pattern drafting. I have really weird shoulders. No matter what pattern is put in front of me, the arm straps are always too long or too wide. .

Construction The Bodice has 3 layers. One being the outside/fashion fabric. The second and third are a linen lining and interfacing quilted together. I used the altered pattern and sewed all three layers together, treating them as one. I then made a front panel to hide the front center seam, and added piping to add visual interest.

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After some thinking, I scraped the matching red piping and the panel. I thought it looked far too “costume-y” and cheap. I decided to leave the center front seam alone since it did not look too noticeable.

Piping 

I bought a contrasting olive green fabric that had some shimmer. Then, I made piping out of a quarter of an inch piping cord. This was my first time making piping and it went smoothly and quickly.

Here’s the tutorial I followed:
http://www.makeit-loveit.com/2012/01/sewing-tips-how-to-make-use-piping.html

I attached the piping along the bottom hem, the armholes and the neckline. I added some visual interest by cutting an oval neckline.

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Sleeves and Modesty Panel 

The sleeves and modesty panel attached to the neckline were made from pillow case fabric. I tea dyed this fabric for a long time since it was made of some polyester. So I’m happy that the colour stuck.

I drafted my own gathered sleeve pattern from a normal sleeve pattern block.

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They were simple to construct. Elastic was attached to the edge and the raw edge was left after zigzaging. They were then attached to the bodice.

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The modesty panel was a last minute addition because I cut the neckline too low. It’s just a square with one end gathered with a tea dyed shoelace. It attached to the bodice just at the straps with a few hand stitches.

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Lacing

The back of the bodice closes with green eyelets and red braided lacing.

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Things I wish I could change

Looking back at the photo shoot pictures, I wish I boned the bodice to prevent wrinkling. I never saw any wrinkles while fitting, but with some action, the fabric wrinkled quite a bit. Nothing to be done about it now, but at least I know for next time. 🙂

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